The world’s great fashion houses appear to be locked in an arms race. They use strobe lighting and smoke machines. They build gigantic sets involving real icebergs towed in from Sweden. Baby dragons and severed heads pop up here and there. Sometimes you’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve strayed from Milan Fashion Week to Westeros.
It takes a lot to cut through the noise, but Max Mara does precisely that. Ian Griffiths, the Italian label’s creative director, doesn’t line the runway with flame throwers and jugglers. He does the exact opposite. His catwalk has zero frills, but what it does have is woman after woman striding past wearing the most irresistible, wearable, desirable clothes.